Paris was one European city we knew we wanted to visit during our year abroad, but not solely for the sights and sensual delights detailed in guidebooks. Our lovely friends Chad and Chantal and their delightful girls, Solange and Ayanna, have temporarily fled their native Canada to spend three years in the City of Lights. We know them from our time in Seattle when Karl and Chad were in grad school together at the University of Washington.
Chad, a Canadian government employee, is on assignment working at OECD (Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development). He's part of team addressing issues regarding the supply of medical radioisotopes. And Chantal, a computer programmer, sweet-talked her employer into letting her telecommute from a home office where she has a view of the Eiffel Tower and goats.
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| View from Chantal and Chad's front deck |
Well, almost. She has to get up from her desk and look from the other side of the room. Probably just as well. That would be a little
too distracting, don't you think?
Goats and sheep "mow" the steep hillside right across the street from the flat. It's cheaper to use farm animals to tend the vegetation than to pay someone to maintain such steep terrain. Cuter, too.
We got in Wednesday afternoon, which gave us evenings with our friends and a couple of days to sight-see on our own (while their family worked and studied). Over the weekend we all got to play, like a bunch of regular- and over-sized kids.
Despite a fabulous forecast earlier in the week, the weather wasn't great our first couple of days. But the grey tones added to the formal, elegant statues in gardens and the 19th century buildings lining the boulevards. How's that for spin? Actually, I'm only half spinning this -- super bright sunshine and the accompanying severe shadows wouldn't have been as easy on the eyes or the pictures. That's not to say we weren't relieved when the sun came out on Friday afternoon.
Thursday ~
We started at
Place de la Concorde, where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were last seen intact, and then headed into the
Jardin des Tuileries (Tuileries Garden).
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| Obelisk at Place de la Concorde. The Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile is just visible looking west down the Champs-Élysées. |
Tuileries Garden is rich with statues of many styles. I seemed to have photographed only those more classic in style.
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| Caesar |
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| Theseus and the Minotaur |
Heading east toward the Louvre, the boys spotted this playground off on the edge of the gardens.
It's like they have a homing device for these things.
After 40 minutes or so, we moved on.
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| Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel (not to be confused with the Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile, which is about twice as big). |
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| An arc angel |
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| The front side of the Arc de Triomphe Carrousel, which faces the Louvre. |
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| See how massive this place is? I couldn't even get it to stay within the blog's margins. |
The Louvre. I.M. Pei's glass pyramids were completed in 1989.
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| East end of the Louvre |
The line to get into the Louvre, though not unusually long, was longer than we wanted to face that day. With a plan to buy tickets online for Friday, we grabbed some tea and hot cocoa at a cafe before strolling down the Seine.
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| Kiosque des noctambules |
Some of the entrance ways to Parisian metro stations are charming. This one, at the
Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre at
Place Colette, is entitled
Kiosque des noctambules (Kiosk of the night-walkers). It was completed in October 2000 for the centenary of the Metro. The two cupolas made of colored glass beads represent day and night.
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| Vélib' bicycles |
Here's how Chad commutes to his job on nice days. For 29 Euros per year, he can grab a bike from
Vélib', the Parisian bike share program. Unlimited rides for 30 minutes or less are covered in the annual membership.
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| A Vélib' meter. |
He just has to make sure there's a meter (i.e. parking space) available at his destination, which he can determine online before heading out.
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| Vélib' gets its name from velo (bicycle) and liberté (freedom). |
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| Pont Neuf |
Pont Neuf (New Bridge) is, funnily enough, the oldest bridge on the Seine.
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| Notre Dame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris) |
We visited Notre Dame Cathedral, touring the interior and hoping for a climb to the belltower.
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| Detail on the middle doorway. |
We bailed on climbing the bell tower, however, when we started feeling a few drops of rain. We'd already invested 45 minutes on line but had progressed only about half-way to the entrance. (And, anyway, the camera battery needed recharging -- what's the point of going up a tower if you don't have pictures to show for it?)
Here's one place we North Americans didn't have to wait on line --
Creperie Follies around the corner from Chad and Chantal's flat. We just had to wait until it opened for evening service at 7pm. Parisians tend to eat dinner later than is our custom, so we pretty much had the place to our noisy selves for much of the meal.
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| On the left bank: Chad, Chantal, Ayanna, and Ben. And the right: Solange, Garrett, Karl, and Kate. |
We enjoyed Breton
galettes (which are like savory
crêpes, made with buckwheat flour) with various fillings. Mine had salmon and
crème fraiche. The adults sipped hard cider, typical of the Breton region, with the meal. And everyone
inhaled savored
crêpes with sweet fillings for desert: chocolate, coconut, fruit, or just straight-up sugar.
Friday ~
With help from our hosts we secured tickets to the Louvre. We still had to queue up about 20 minutes to go through security before entering. At least we were sheltered in the Pavillion Richelieu, not out in the rain with the poor ticket-less folks waiting to enter via the big pyramid.
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| Pavillion Richelieu |
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| I.M. Pei's Pyramid |
I played around with the camera software's light and tone settings to create the above effect. (And I may have unleashed something of a beast in this department. More to come.)
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| Gallerie des Caryatides |
On our way to the
Mona Lisa, Ben and I had to pass through the Caryatids Gallery which gave us a chance to check out these statue-columns. They were at least 4.5 meters (15 feet) high.
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| Diana of Versailles |
The Caryatids Gallery was built to showcase this representation of Diana the huntress. I am fascinated by the statuary we've seen this year. How can marble look so supple and airy and drape-y? How can stone look like fabric?
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| Fresco of the fall of Icarus (I think. I can't confirm it, though.) |
At times the palace itself is the work of art -- colorful frescoes, marble columns, and intricate molding.
I asked Ben why he was interested in the
Mona Lisa as we made our way to the
Salle des Etats (Hall of the States). After learning about Leonardo da Vinci during his class's section on inventors, Ben just wanted to see something that da Vinci had actually made. Fair enough. (And can I just say that I think it's kind of cool that my eight-year-old son wanted to see the
Mona Lisa? Too bad it's somewhat anticlimactic.)
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Portrait of Lisa Gherardini, wife of Francesco del Giocondo, or the Mona Lisa
by Leonardo da Vinci |
Here she is. All 77 cm × 53 cm (30 in × 21 in) of her. From 6 m (20 ft). Behind glass.
And here are her fans and admirers. It's interesting how few people are actually looking at the painting rather than the LCDs on their cameras.
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| The Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese |
This huge painting is opposite the
Mona Lisa. Ben and I took in several other Louvre highlights on the way to meet Karl and Garrett.
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| Winged Victory of Samothrace |
And a close up ...
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Consecration of the Emperor Napoleon I and Coronation of the Empress Josephine
by Jacques-Louis David |
At roughly 10m x 6m (32ft x 20ft) this canvas is enormous. In fact it covers a bigger area than the footprint of our house back home. Our house is not huge ... but, still.
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| Aphrodite or Venus de Milo |
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| Venus and Ben |
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| Again with the liquid fabric. |
Ancient Egypt ~
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| Great Sphinx of Tanis |
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| Statues of the goddess Sekhmet |
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| Egyptian mummy and admirers |
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| Colossal Statue of Ramesses II |
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| Whoa! |
And now, a little shout out to my friends and former co-workers at LLL and WIC ~
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| When child-led weaning doesn't go as planned ... |
As a La Leche League leader and lactation specialist, I've worked with lots of women who've had questions about extended nursing. And the expression on this woman's face is timeless. Many a mother who's nursed her child into toddlerhood harbors a fear that sits like a cold, hard stone in her belly: "He's
never going to wean ..."
(For the record, I'm quite sure this bas-relief is not about extended nursing or even depicting a mother and son. But hey, you bring your lenses and filters to a given experience, and I'll bring mine.)
Moving on ...
We left the Louvre and walked out among the Aristide Maillol statues in the east end of the Tuileries Garden.
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| Three Nymphs |
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| The Mountain |
I like the fleshiness of these pieces. No twiggy waifs here.
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| The River, with passenger |
Next up, the
Eiffel Tower by day and night.
