Monday, January 31, 2011

Head to Head with Haggis

Rabbie Burns
Saturday night Karl and I got all dolled up to attend Burns Night sponsored by Riverside, the boys' school. Burns Night, a celebration of the Scottish poet Robert Burns, takes place on or near his birthday, January 25. Not surprisingly, Burns Suppers occur mostly in Scotland, but are presented by Scots clubs and Scottish expats all over the world.


I had the impression that Scots had a big presence at Riverside, but it turns out there are only about six native highlanders on staff. I think my inflated perspective stems from the fact that this small group includes Ben's teacher, Miss Logan, and the principal, Mr. Chisholm.

The Riverside Burns Night was conceived eight years ago when the Scottish contingent concocted the idea at Christmas dinner. Likely over whiskey. The PTA took the idea and ran with it. Five weeks later a few dozen staff, faculty, and parents sat down to poetry and haggis. Burns Night has become the social event of the Riverside School calendar, and this year 140 of us turned out with touch of tartan.


And me without my kilt.

We loved seeing so many Scots dressed in full regalia. 


Here's Mr. Chisholm, the school principal, modeling his outfit. He even shared what he had in his sporran -- cell phone, keys, and the money from the evening's raffle tickets. Basically, it's a fancy man purse.

Burns Nights follow a standard program.

A Welcoming Speech

The Immortal Memory
Mr. Haig (Year 2 teacher) gave a short speech on Burns, outlining his greatness and relevance today.

The Selkirk Grace
Some hae meat and canna eat,
and some wad eat that want it,
but we hae meat and we can eat,
and sae the Lord be thankit.
Toast to the Haggis
All guests stood to welcome the haggis procession, consisting of the piper and the chef carrying the delicacy. Below is a still from the video I took of the haggis being paraded around while the piper played "Scotland the Brave." (You might want to check that out, it's kind of fun.)


After the procession, an honored guest read "Address to a Haggis." You can find a translation (in standard English) for the poem plus a little cultural context on haggis here. Or, if you'd prefer the Czech translation, go here. (And who knew we would have so many haggis opportunities in Prague?)
Address to a Haggis
Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,
Great chieftain o' the puddin-race!
Aboon them a' ye tak your place,
Painch, tripe, or thairm:
Weel are ye wordy of a grace
As lang's my arm.

The groaning trencher there ye fill,
Your hurdies like a distant hill,
Your pin wad help to mend a mill
In time o' need,
While thro' your pores the dews distil
Like amber bead.

His knife see rustic Labour dight,
An' cut ye up wi' ready slight,
Trenching your gushing entrails bright,
Like onie ditch;
And then, O what a glorious sight,
Warm-reekin, rich!

Then horn for horn, they stretch an' strive:
Deil tak the hindmost, on they drive,
Till a' their weel-swall'd kytes belyve
Are bent like drums;
Then auld Guidman, maist like to rive,
'Bethankit!' hums.

Is there that owre his French ragout,
Or olio that wad staw a sow,
Or fricassee wad mak her spew
Wi perfect scunner,
Looks down wi' sneering, scornfu' view
On sic a dinner?

Poor devil! see him owre his trash,
As feckess as a wither'd rash,
His spindle shank a guid whip-lash,
His nieve a nit;
Tho' bluidy flood or field to dash,
O how unfit.

But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,
The trembling earth resounds his tread,
Clap in his walie nieve a blade,
He'll make it whistle;
An' legs, an' arms, an' heads will sned
Like taps o' thrissle.

Ye pow'rs, wha mak mankind your care,
And dish them out their bill o' fare,
Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware,
That jaups in luggies;
But if ye wish her gratfu' prayer,
Gie her a Haggis! 

Mr. Clarke (religious ed teacher) waits for the appropriate moment to slice into the casing.
His knife see rustic Labour dight,
An' cut ye up wi' ready slight,
Trenching your gushing entrails bright,
Like onie ditch;
And then, O what a glorious sight,
Warm-reekin, rich! 
 Ah! There it is!


I love the look on the chef's face, who may be in over his head here. DHL brought the haggis in from Scotland, so the most this guy did was warm it up. He's pretty obviously Czech, and (to our eyes) pretty obviously repulsed. "Gushing entrails," "warm-reekin' rich" indeed!

After the address, we were invited to partake of the banquet. Our table, at the top of the hall near the band, was called upon to start the queue. The next thing I knew, I was the first in line for haggis.


The menu included regular haggis (above), vegetarian haggis (are you kidding me? what could that possibly be!? the entrails of a soybean with oats?), beef stew (should ye be feeling unsure of the haggis), neeps (mashed turnips), tatties (mashed potatoes) and a whiskey cream sauce (which is on my plate between the neeps and the haggis). Everyone got his or her own wee dram of Johnnie Walker Black Label whiskey.

The verdict? Karl and I agreed: the haggis was fine, tasty actually! It was like meatloaf with steel-cut oats and some unusual herbs and spices. Once we put the whole entrails idea out of our heads, we were good to go. The only thing we didn't like was the neeps. But then we've never been big neep fans.

Selection of Poems and Songs
Following dinner, several duos and groups performed songs.


Included in this group are Mr. Coats (you can probably figure out who he is), the Information and Computer Technology teacher and leader of Ben's computer club, and Miss Logan (3rd from the right), Ben's teacher.

Toast to the Lassies
An address to the ladies in the audience -- but not really. Kind of a silly monologue detailing a man's idea of a woman's foibles.

Reply and Toast to the Laddies
Ditto above. Just reverse genders.

Auld Lang Syne
We're going to have to assume the crowd linked arms and belted out "Auld Lang Syne" at the evening's end (had forgotten Burns wrote that!), because we didn't make it that far. We left just after 11 as the tables were being pushed back for some dancing. I wish we could have stayed, but I was fighting the beginnings of a cold, and we already heard they were planning to go until 3 or 4am. And I Just Can't Do That Anymore. Unfortunately.

We were sort of on the fence about attending Burns Night, particularly the one of us lacking a Scotch-Irish background. But we had a delightful evening -- lively music, great company, strong whiskey (okay, not such a fan), and haggis! Wasn't expecting to be a convert. But there it is.

Should you find yourself invited to a Burns Night, let not the poetry of Monty Python, such as below, dissuade you.
Horace

Much to his Mum and Dad's dismay
Horace ate himself one day.
He didn't stop to say his grace,
He just sat down and ate his face.
"We can't have this his Dad declared,
"If that lad's ate, he should be shared."
But even as he spoke they saw
Horace eating more and more:
First his legs and then his thighs,
His arms, his nose, his hair, his eyes...
"Stop him someone!" Mother cried
"Those eyeballs would be better fried!"
But all too late, for they were gone,
And he had started on his dong...
"Oh! foolish child!" the father mourns
"You could have deep-fried that with prawns,
Some parsley and some tartar sauce..."
But H. was on his second course:
His liver and his lights and lung,
His ears, his neck, his chin, his tongue;
"To think I raised him from the cot
And now he's going to scoff the lot!"
His Mother cried: "What shall we do?
What's left won't even make a stew..."
And as she wept, her son was seen
To eat his head, his heart, his spleen.
And there he lay: a boy no more,
Just a stomach, on the floor...
None the less, since it was his
They ate it – that's what haggis is.
Haggis. Just needs a better PR rep.


Do dheagh shlàinte! (Your good health!)

Friday, January 28, 2011

Billa dnes to nejlepší pro mě!

"Billa has the best for me today!"


Six blocks northwest-ish of our apartment is Billa, our grocery store of choice. Karl and I find ourselves there at least once or twice a week. Each. It's not just that our food planning is lax and inefficient. (Although that's true for sure.) Our refrigerator is smaller than the average American fridge. And we also have to haul everything home in backpacks and hand totes. And then there are the 103 stairs up to the apartment. Oy.


Back in the fall, I posted pictures and prices on Facebook but have been meaning to do it here, too. Here's what I brought home recently after a big shopping expedition (not an oh-shoot-we're-out-of-pasta-and-toilet-paper emergency run).

Currency exchange today: 17.9 czk (Czech Republic Korunas) = $1 US. (Which, btw, is a lot worse than it was a month ago. Nice timing on the trip, A.)

jablko (apples) 34.30 CZK or $1.92 US

pomeranč (oranges) 24.90 CZK or $1.40 US

hrušky (pears) 16.70czk or $0.94


okurka (cucumber) 16.90 CZK or $0.95 US

200g máslo (butter) 24.90 CZK = $1.40 US

300g sýr Eidam (Edam cheese) 44.90 CZK or $2.52 US

kefír (kefir -- drinkable yogurt) 14.90 CZK or $0.84 US

polotučné mléko (reduced fat milk, 1.5%) 4 @ 12.90 CZK/liter = 51.60 CZK or $2.90 US
The Billa housebrand is "Clever." We have lots of Clever products in our apartment -- matches, cheese, toilet paper, milk. So very Clever. 

Bagueta (baguettes) 3 x 12.90 CZK = 63.60 CZK or $2.17 US

slané pečivo (crackers, or literally "salted baked goods") 4 x 15.90 CZK = 63.60 or $3.57 US

omáčka (sauce) 44.90 CZK or $2.52 US

těstoviny (pasta) 25.90 CZK or $1.45 US

banánové plátky (banana chips) 8.90 CZK or $0.50 US

  párky (hot dogs) 19.90 CZK or $1.12 US

losos uzený (smoked salmon) 29.90 CZK or $1.68 US

 salám vysočina (vysočina-style salami) 14.90 CZK or $0.84 US

 džus (juice) 2 Hello @ 19.90 CZK/liter = 39.80 + 1 Clever @ 11.90 = 51.70 CZK or $2.90 US

0.3 liter Pepsi Light (Diet Pepsi!) 19.90 CZK or $1.12 US

But here's where we get our real steals ... pivo!

pivo (beer) 2 Krušovice @ 10.90 CZK = 21.80 US + 1 Kozel @ 12.90 = 34.70 CZK or $1.95 US
There is also a 3 CZK deposit on each of the beer bottles. 

na zuby (toothbrush, literally "for teeth") 12.90 CZK or $0.72 US
I neglected to get the javor sirup (maple syrup) to sit down for its portrait, but that was our splurgy item at 149.90 CZK or $8.41 US.  You can see it on the left-hand side of the picture below. Behind the apples.

Total bill = 764 czk or $42.84 US
That's all for that shopping spree. Let me know if you'd like a price check on anything specific!

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Osm and a Half

Today is Ben's half-birthday. Last July -- in the midst of us packing our belongings, prepping the house for renters, and remodeling the bathroom -- Ben turned eight (“osm” in Czech, which sounds more than a little like “awesome”).

Ben took the chaos in stride, even chose a celebration at an amusement park with the family and his lifelong friend, Nate, over a big birthday party. Which was delightful for us: more fun, less work.



Benjamin Harold showed us right from the start that hurrying was not his style. He was born 16 days after his “due” date following a labor that culminated in five and a half hours of pushing.

(pause for groan)

Ben arrived in the center of a circle of women cheering and encouraging me to Get This Baby OUT! Karl, every bit as eager as the ladies, was much less demonstrative until Ben was born -- then he wept openly with the rest of us.

Upon arrival, Ben grimaced and blinked at the light, looked around to determine what just happened, and then snuggled into my arms. (To this day there are mornings when I wake him up and, looking at his face, think his mannerisms haven't changed all that much since that hot summer day in Seattle.) For a brief moment he seemed slightly put out to have been disturbed, but then he exuded a presence of calm and belonging, as if he couldn't imagine being anywhere else, doing anything other than gazing into his parents' eyes.

He was the most gorgeous creature I'd ever seen.


Though we've never visited the internal world of Ben's mind, we do get amazing postcards and dispatches. Ben has a mind-boggling ability to grasp concepts and commit facts to memory. Over pancakes this morning, Karl and the boys were discussing the latest Večerníček series, Říkání o víle Amálce, or the Stories of Amalka the Fairy. Karl mentioned that víla (with an accent on the “i”) meant fairy or sprite but vila (no accent) meant country residence or villa. Ben drew a quick in-breath as his head snapped up.

“Oh! So that show we saw advertised last month was really called 'Winter Fairy' not 'Winter Villa'!” Ben remarked.

With his head slightly cocked and his gaze drifting up and into the distance, Karl smiled and nodded at having his son correct his Czech translation.

Ben's vocabulary has always been way beyond his years. At four, Ben regularly used words like “rather” and “whereas.” Correctly. Which reminds me -- he was also a bit of an adverb junkie, peppering his commentary with adamant exclamations of “Actually!” and “Surprisingly” and “Disappointingly ….” This sounded all the more out of place before he learned how to say “L” and “R”. ("suh-pwising-wee...")


But if Ben is known for anything, it's his love of reading. One of the journal prompts his class had in kindergarten read: “If I could spend the night at school, I would want to stay in ______ because _______.” It was no surprise to anyone when Ben wrote “I would want to stay in the library, because then I could read books all night!” In every classroom situation since preschool, Ben's teachers have adored his passion for books. Until they don't.

“It's becoming a problem,” the teacher would say, usually about three months into the school year. “I've never said this before, but I really want Ben to choose an activity other than reading or looking at books during free-choice time.”

We heard some version of this in preschool, kindergarten, and first grade. The teachers, confident in Ben's comfort with and interest in books, wanted to make sure that his social development progressed along with his reading ability.

(Thus far, Ben's current teacher, Miss Logan, is in the adoration phase.)

Not that Ben doesn't love all the regular things that kids love: climbing trees, laughing at poop jokes, building with Legos, playing games on the playground, and running races. He always wants us to devise a race course and time him running it. And he's pretty fast, too … when he wants to be. His friend Alex –– who's an incredible athlete –– once noted, “Ben's a really fast runner. But he's a really sloooow walker!”

Long fascinated by science, Ben is our go-to guy when it comes to anything regarding dinosaurs, space, or the world around him.


His thirst for knowledge keeps us on our toes. Back in Oneonta Karl was preparing a bath for Ben one night when Ben asked, "What's sex?"

Karl stammered for only a moment before responding, "Well, that's what animals do when they mate. That's how babies are made. It's how mammals make babies, including humans."

Karl's satisfaction at meeting the question head on was deflated as soon as Ben presented the follow up:

"What's amazing sex?"

The next week It's So Amazing arrived in the mail from Amazon, and Ben delved into it eagerly.

(And, parents? Let this be a cautionary tale of what can happen when you leave The New Yorker on the back of the toilet.


This is the cover that inspired Ben's query.)

It would be hard to quantify all the ways that Ben has matured this year. He's more open to trying new foods, and he doesn't complain throughout a less favorite dish (that was a major milestone). He demonstrated new depths of strength and grace in facing the school challenges of this year. And his sense of contentment has grown as well. Though he's not particularly comfortable in front of the camera, I see it in some pictures –– a softened face, a confident presence.


It has been a delight to show Ben the fun of exploration and discovery in our travels. His sense of wonder, his ability to make connections, and enthusiasm for learning enrich us all.



We love our eight year old! Simply put, he's awesome. And a half.


Wednesday, January 19, 2011

A Grand Day Out, Flat Stanley style

Last week we opened a thick envelope that arrived from Oneonta and out poured Flat Stanley, along with his diary, a bunch of letters, and some pictures. Flat Stanley is a character in a children's book who experiences different adventures because of his unique shape. In one story he visits California via the postal system. Ben's class from home is doing the Flat Stanley project (in which kids send Flat Stanleys all over the world), and Alex, one of Ben's best buddies, chose to send Flat Stanley to Prague.


What a treat for Ben to receive all of these handmade letters from his friends! His school “loops” grades for two years, so the classmates and teachers he had last year for first grade class are still together this year for second grade.

Sunday we had a gift of a day weather-wise -- clear skies and about 12 degrees C/mid-50s F. Since Flat Stanley arrived without a jacket, we knew he would appreciate the warmer temperatures.

We covered a lot of territory.


Here are Ben and Flat Stanley in front of a typical city tram. To get around town we take the tram, bus, or the subway.


Ben and Flat Stanley on the west side of Karlův most (Charles Bridge), in front of the Malostranské mostecké věže (Smaller Side bridge towers). The bridge is one of Prague's most famous landmarks. It was built starting in 1357 on the 9th of July at 5:31am, recognized as an auspicious time for its palindromic quality: 135797531. Thirty statues of saints line the sides of the bridge.


Flat Stanley poses on Kampa Island, with the high waters of Vltava River behind him. We had a week of warm temperatures which led to a quick melt off and flooding in some areas. Charles Bridge and the east side of the river are in the distance.


On the No. 9 tram -- Flat Stanley takes in the scenery while Ben reads.


Flat Stanley (supported by Garrett) and Ben pose in Václavské náměstí, or Wenceslas Square. Wenceslas Square was first established in the 1300s as a horse market. It has been the site of many political demonstrations through the years, including the 1989 Velvet Revolution when up to 500,000 people protested the communist rule of then Czechoslovakia.

The big building at the top of the square is the Národní muzeum (National Museum). We like visiting the museum on the first Thursday of the month, when then there is no entrance fee. There's a fun exhibit there now on Czech legends.


Ben, Garrett, and Flat Stanley under the statue of Sv. Václav (St. Wenceslas), the patron saint of the Czech lands. This the same guy from the Christmas carol "Good King Wenceslas."


Ben and Flat Stanley brace themselves for the rush of air pushed by the subway!


We climbed the Staroměstská mostecká věž (Old Town bridge tower -- the one seen in the picture of Flat Stanley on Kampa). Flat Stanley enjoyed amazing views of Charles Bridge and its many statues, the Vltava River, Mala Strana (Small Side), and Pražský hrad (Prague Castle).


Flat Stanley with Sir Garrett inside the bridge tower.



Flat Stanley soaks up the sun on Charles Bridge (and observes Prague Castle from a new perspective).

It was a very exciting day, and we'd worked up a good appetite. Fortunately we had reservations at Výtopna Restaurant because the boys had earned another reward dinner. Flat Stanley was excited to hear there were trains closer to his size.


We placed our drink order and pretty soon we saw the beverage locomotive chugging toward us.



At the end of the meal, another train arrived to clear our glasses and bottles.

“THAT was awesome!” Garrett and Ben proclaimed as we left Vytopna.

Flat Stanley was speechless in his delight. He will be heading home soon with his diary, some pictures, and a lot of lovely memories. We were so happy to have his company. Thank you, Alex!



Parting shot: like any city, Prague has its oddities. Here's something you can partake in when next you find yourself on Wenceslas Square:


Exfoliation by sucker fish


Personally, I was pleased to have already eaten my dinner. Because this


would have left me with little appetite.

Ahoj!