Aunt Infestation!

Lauren and Mara

Question: What could be more delightful than having your doting aunties (in the case of Ben and Garrett), your beloved sisters (for Karl), or your yet-two-more-examples-of-how-you-really-lucked-into-this-family, super cool sisters-in-law (that's me speaking) come all the way from Boston to visit?

Answer: Precious little.

Tábor and the Hussites

Now that spring weather is upon us, we've started taking weekend day trips into the country again. With two energetic young boys, our day trips have to involve a lot of outdoor romping. Ben and Garrett enjoy a tower climb, can tolerate maybe one indoor exhibit, and are always open to hitting a pub for snacks and a drink (which, in their case, is either hot cocoa or juice). But any more of an indoor plan than that is asking for trouble. This year in Europe has not been one of whiling away afternoons at kavarnas or musing over the finer points of art from the renaissance period. At times it's felt like a mad dash from one playground to a geocache and back again ... while shoe-horning an historic site or two into the agenda.

In March we headed to South Bohemia to the medieval town of Tábor. Tábor is significant for its history and its architecture. Fortunately it has a few geocaches as well, because let's face it -- history and architecture only go so far in igniting the imagination the 6- to 8-year-old set.

To appreciate Tábor's history it's good to know a little about Jan Hus and the Hussite reformation. Hus is considered a spiritual founder of the city, although the city was established after his death.

Jan Hus profile relief, from the Bethlehem Chapel exhibit in Prague

Jan Hus was a Czech priest and a master at Charles University in the early 1400s. By the time he was in his 30s, his charismatic preaching style drew crowds up to 3,000 when he preached at the Bethlehem Chapel in Old Town, where services were in Czech rather than Latin. Hus, a follower of English philosopher and theologian John Wycliffe (an early dissident from the Roman Catholic Church and proponent of translating the Bible into common language), believed that there should be less separation between God and laity, particularly in the sacraments of confession and communion. He was also very critical of corruption and wealth in the institutional Church. In 1415, Hus was burned at the stake for heresy.

Křivoklát Castle

Šťasný nový rok! (Happy New Year!) House guests, holidays, and kids on school break have kept me from the blog. I've got a backlog (would that be a klog?) of posts building. Since the boys returned to school today, I finally have a little time to catch up.

Colder weather has kept us from making day trips to the country as our interests are usually of the outdoor variety. But the weather took a turn for the better over the weekend, and we decided to visit Hrad Křivoklát (Křivoklát Castle). We caught a fast train to Beroun and then got on this cute little local to head to the site. I took this picture just as we realized that we got off the train one stop too early.

Oops.

No matter. It was a clear day with temps in the low 40s F/5 C. Momentarily stalled, we set out for a three-kilometer walk on a well-maintained trail.

With temperatures suddenly well above freezing, rivers have been much higher than usual, and there is some concern of flooding. Perhaps you can see how high the Berounka is in the distance.

It ran fast and carried lots of ice and debris. All heading to the Vltava. And Prague.

Off to storm the castle.

Our first full glimpse of Křivoklát!

Built in the 12th century, Křivoklát was the childhood home of Charles IV (of Charles Bridge and Charles University fame). Originally a hunting residence for royals, it ultimately became a royal prison.

Přízraky Křivoklátska (Phantoms of Křivoklát) ~ with a history as a royal prison, there are going to be a few ghost stories to tell.

Karl and Garrett took a tour of the interior while Ben and I hung out in the courtyard, playing and reading. Garrett was most taken with the stories of branding people with hot coals (ew) and the hunger chamber, a deep well-like structure that prisoners were lowered into to die. Like I said, ghost stories.

Afterward we walked to town, had a snack at the local pub,

and caught the next train home.

Bears and beers and Bara

When Karl was in the Czech Republic in 1991-92, he lived in Plzeň with a young couple, Zbyndá and Marketa, and their children, Bara and Voita. At the end of August we spent a delightful day with them. We went on a hike to the ruins of Radyné Castle.

Garrett guards the Hunger Chamber at Radyné.

Along the way we geocached, finding the three caches we set out for (much better luck than we had this summer in NH, where we were 0 for 4).

Ben crawled in and found the "Bear's Den" cache. Here, Ben, Garrett, and Bara check out the loot.

Back at their house, Marketa and Bara showed us their egg-decorating technique. Marketa has already started building up her stash for next Easter, as she sells them locally.

The boys and I tried our hands at egg art.

Marketa's gorgeous eggs (bet you can't find one of ours hiding in the bunch).

Finally, we had a feast of grilled food, veggies and many drinks (homemade black currant wine and -- of course -- Pilsner) outside in the shelter they built in the backyard. No hunger chamber here.


The boys had a fantastic day (we did, too!), but they especially loved hanging out with Bara who did magic tricks, played hide and seek, and in general was more fun than anyone's parents. Especially Ben and Garrett's.